4. Back to Greece     

We headed north and west from Fethiye to meet Jim and Katherine in Paros, in the central Greek Cyclades.  From Tersane in Fethiye we went to:

1. 20 July. Tersane (Fethiye Bay) - Gerbeske. 44nm 

Escaping Fethiye Bay had a good feeling initially, but as we neared Kapu Dag, the headland marking the western entrance we didn't feel so good. Although there was little wind, the sea was awful; short sharp seas tossing us gunwale to gunwale. Unfortunately we hadn't even put the mainsail up, so smooth was the sea 'inside'. We managed to get a reefed main up after a lot of hanging on as we rolled around and having to untangle the main halyard that had managed to wrap itself round the lazy jacks several times. Once up that dampened some of the rolling. The seas appeared slightly less viscous to the north shore, so we pointed that way rather than slap into the waves at north west- which was where we wanted to go. 5 miles or so later, the sea had eased considerably, we even managed to sail a while! We had hoped to head for the western tip of Marmaris Peninsular but only succeeded in getting as far as Gerbeske, having looked at Ciftlik next door, but deciding there was too much swell for a comfortable anchorage there.

We managed to moor with a line astern to the shore, with me swimming with a long rope to secure the stern to a rock. Unfortunately the crew on the gullet next door thought we weren't making a very good job of it, so came to 'help', but didn't really - but wasn't it nice of them to be looking out for us.

2. 21 July. Symi (Greece). 26nm

We were looking forward to a visit to Symi, most people have said its a nice, picturesque town and worth a trip. We bashed along the Turkish coast in uncomfortable seas and a brisk head wind expecting it to be worse when we turned north up the channel. But lo and behold as we turned to starboard, the sea flattened out and the breeze turned onto the beam for a nice sail for about 5 miles and then petered out to nothing.

Symi is a barren island - it has no natural water supply - and from the distance it looks brown and unwelcoming to any human habitation, but as you turn into the bay of Symi town, it presents a busy image - multi-coloured venetian houses clinging onto steep slopes - quite impressive.

We moored stern to the quay (first time!!!) with a marineiro to point out a place and take lines (3e water & elec extra), and then went for a walk. it was VERY hot and we were glad to get a bit of respite in the shadows made in the small alley ways around the port.  Unfortunately our expectations and hopes for Symi were not met; our berth turned out to be directly outside a bar playing loud dreadful greek pop music till 4am, the gyros was disappointing and the town itself seemed too touristy for our liking, there appeared no other reason for it to exist but to part visitors from their cash. But as with so many places we have loved but were advised not to go, your experience may differ considerably. We're all different and amen to that!

3. 22 July. Knidos (Turkey) 33nm

So, off again - we motored through the shallow gap between Nisos Symi and Nimos, our nerves being eased by following a gullet through. The wind was too light to sail until we were off Pamalut on the Turkish coast when the we got a nice f6 on the nose! Double-reefed we had a great sail tacking towards Knidos, Roam II showing us what she can do at last! Approaching Knidos Terry noticed that the fishing line had fouled on the rudder and perhaps the propeller, so we sailed into the calmer water behind Knidos, hove-to and Terry prepared his mask, snorkel and knife to go over the side to sort it out. as soon as he was ready, we noticed it had freed itself! oh well.

Knidos is a stunning anchorage (see 2007 Logbook 6) with a Roman amphitheatre and remains on the hillside (admission sometimes charged), but unfortunately the holding is not great. Last year we gave up and went alongside the jetty, which is run by the taverna there (20 YTL), but this year we persisted and got the anchor to hold after a reasonable tug in astern with the engine. I think an anchor and chain of nearly double the weight of Roam I helps. There were a few gusts overnight, but we stuck firm.

Another thing we noticed was how chilly it was compared to everywhere else this summer. it was almost a relief to have to put on a fleece after the sun went down.

4. 23 July. Gumusluck 27nm

We were up early for the trip north passed Kos as we know the wind gets up from the north around there most afternoons. We were rewarded with 4 hours of motoring (yawn) and dolphins!

Gumusluck was recommended by friends and they were right to do so. There isn't much swinging room, so we anchored with a line ashore and swam, and climbed the hill up to the big turkish flag on the headland, explored the lines of restaurants ashore - ignoring the expensive ones but finding the inexpensive family ones (even selling beer here!) - a plate of stuffed peppers and bread for 4YTL - yum.

above: Gumusluck, moored line ashore between 2 gullets - don't we look tiny!

5. 26 July. Lakki on Leros (Greece) 32nm

Needing a bit of shopping now, we headed for Lakki on the west side of Leros; Heikel says its good for provisioning. We had another nice sail, despite the wind being NW (on the nose again), but not very strong. This means tacking, which is not considered very cruiser-like in these parts.

Lakki harbour is huge, used as a base by the Italian Navy in the war and still has a prohibited zone on the south side. We enquired at the marina for a berth, but hastily turned it down when we were told it would be between 15-19e a night, and went to anchor. Exploring ashore for provisions was disappointing really, being Saturday afternoon didn't help as many shops did not open after siesta. The town has little to recommend it visually, nor provisioning-wise but we have heard favourable reports from people who keep their boats here for winter at the boat yard. We just didn't see it.

In its favour, we did find good gyros and on Sunday i was directed to the fruit and veg shop which we had not found the day before.

6. 27 July. Lipsi (2 week stay due to the meltemi) 32 nm  

We knew there was a Meltemi due to start blowing on the Tuesday and our original plan had been to go from Lipsi and then on to Patmos for the blow. Motoring into Lipsi  we were instantly charmed by the white and blue buildings nestling in the harbour along with numerous cupola'd churches. Very Greek, exactly the sort of scene I think of. We berthed stern to, had some lunch, went to the beach and decided to stay. What we didn't know is that we'd be there for 2 weeks. Every day we looked at the weather on the internet (wi-fi in the Calypso Hotel bar) to see the wind solid f7 for the next 7 days with no end in sight. But what else could we need - a safe (free) mooring, water available on the quay (so long as the stink-pots don't take it all when they wash their boats off every day), a great shop at the end of the mole (eat your heart out Lakki) and enough bars and tavernas to keep even Terry occupied for a while!

Lipsi harbour

New friends, David and Liz (yes, as mad as they look!)...

...and Bramwell (aka 'Granny Smith'), a Swedish history professor

7. 9 August. Patmos. 13.5

8. 10 August. Skhinousa. 68nm

9. 12 August. Aliki, Paros. 22nm

10. 13 August. Porikia, Paros. 10nm

We bashed from Lipsi after a 2 week stay due to a continual meltemi (northerly wind) to Paros to meet up with Jim & Katherine who were on holiday here. We just managed to get here 2 days before they went home! We met up with a couple of boats from Marmaris, Alba Voyager and Meand'er and spent a good few evenings watching the sun go down.

We've also been to see the summer's favourite film: Mamma Mia at the Paros open air cinema. We thoroughly enjoyed it and laughed lots.

 

11. 25 August. Finikas, Syros. 26nm

12. 29 Auguat. Paros. 24nm

13. 12 Sept. Iraklia. 32nm

14. 13 Sept. Levitha 50nm

15. 14 Sept. Lakki, Leros 21nm

16. 15 Sept. Turgutreis/Gumusluck (Turkey) 29nm

17. 16 Sept. Lipsi. 30nm